The Friends of Mount Athos Book Reviews

© 2007

Athos: Monastic Life on the Holy Mountain. Helsinki City Art Museum: Maahenki, n.d. 344 pages. Hardback. ISBN 978-952-5328-88-2. 82 euros.

This volume is the catalogue of the eponymous exhibition that was mounted by the Helsinki Art Museum and displayed in the Art Museum Tennis Palace from 18 August 2006 to 21 January 2007. In his article about the exhibition that appeared in last yearÕs Annual Report Joseph Roilidis mentioned that a catalogue was in preparation which Ôfor technical reasonsÕ could not be made available at the inauguration. My suspicion is that the real reason for the catalogueÕs late appearance was that it was not until the very last moment that the organizers knew exactly what they were going to get in the way of treasures from the Holy Mountain. But whatever the reason for the delay, its appearance now is all the more welcome. It serves as a most pleasurable reminder of a particularly successful and impressive exhibition for those of us who were fortunate enough to see it and a handsome consolation prize for those who were not. It is also a valuable work of reference since many of the exhibits have not been published before.

            The volume begins with a collection of essays by various hands on a range of Athonite and iconographic topics of which two are particularly noteworthy. In a piece entitled ÔAn unfathomable miracleÕ Berndt Arell, the Helsinki City Art MuseumÕs Director, writes movingly about the history of the exhibition:

first and foremost, it was the will of the Mother of God, to which His Holiness Bartholomew, Ecumenical Patriarch of Constantinople, gave his warm and active support [É] but I think it is fair to say that the values cherished by the monasteries of Mount Athos for over a thousand years, and still cherished by them today, have been a powerful driving force for those working to create the exhibition.

Of its purpose Dr Arell writes: ÔWe emphasized from the outset that we wished to bring to the fore the spiritual side of Orthodox monastic life and the practise of the Orthodox faith.Õ

The other introductory essay worth noting here is that by Yu. A. Pyatnitsky, Head of the Byzantine Icons Collection at the Hermitage in St Petersburg, who concentrates on relations between Russia and Mount Athos and highlights the activities of Pyotr Ivanovich Sevastyanov (1811–67). Sevastyanov made numerous visits to Athos in the 1850s in order to take photographs, copy documents, and collect icons. His collection was displayed at a special exhibition for the imperial family in the Winter Palace in March 1861 and subsequently moved to the Imperial Academy of Art where it was opened to the public. The icons that he brought back from Athos have now been added to the Byzantine collection in the Hermitage from where, together with many other precious examples, they were loaned to Helsinki for the recent exhibition.

            The catalogue reveals (as was not entirely obvious from the arrangement of the exhibition itself) that the material sent from Athos formed a minority of the exhibits. This in no way diminished the value of the display which, as was made clear in its title, focused on monastic life, but inevitably it has an impact on the catalogue as a work of reference. Of the forty icons sent by the monasteries, for example, all but one or two were post-Byzantine (though they included five glorious examples by Theophanes the Cretan from Stavronikita). Similarly all the manuscripts in Helsinki were post-Byzantine (though there is virtue in this too in showing that Athos remained a centre of copying as late as 1800). By contrast the collection of paper icons was excellent, as was the Ôother materialÕ, viz. photographs, contemporary paintings, postcards, and maps, material that is not easily available to the average pilgrim and all of it carefully described in the catalogue.

            Located somewhat uncomfortably between ÔEmbroideryÕ and ÔOther materialÕ is a short but nonetheless important section on Moni Zygou. This is an Athonite monastery whose ruins all of us can visit because it lies (according to the archaeologist, Joachim Ath. Papaggelos) 40 metres outside the current boundary of the Holy Mountain. Indeed it makes a pleasant evening stroll to walk south along the line of the coast from Ouranoupolis to see it. It was, so Dr Papaggelos tells us, one of the principal monasteries of Athos in the eleventh century, though it had been abandoned before 1206 when it became the headquarters of a Latin ÔcrusaderÕ who used it as a base from which to conduct raids on the Holy Mountain (hence its modern name Frangokastro). Fragments of an impressive marble iconostasis were reconstructed in Helsinki to form a focal point of the exhibition.

            Part two of the catalogue, entitled ÔWorks from the collections of MuseumsÕ, details exhibits (icons, manuscripts and documents, paper icons, wood carvings and minor art, liturgical utensils, embroidery) that were once on Athos but are now scattered among museum collections, notably in Russia but also in Greece, Serbia, and Germany. The icons (which number more than 100) are in a different league from those sent by the monasteries (though for some reason the quality of the photographic reproduction of the latter is greatly superior in the book). Not all of them were painted on Athos, but all were there for at least some (perhaps all) of their ÔcareerÕ as liturgical objects. The assembly illustrates just a fraction of what Athos has lost (or should one say, what Athos has bequeathed to the world?) and it testifies to the discerning taste of collectors such as Sevastyanov. Worthy of particular mention are: (1) the twelfth-century Transfiguration from Vatopedi (Hermitage); (10) the Christ Enthroned, possibly by Rublev (Tretyakov); (22) the twelve double-sided icons of the ChurchÕs feasts, possibly produced by a group of Greek and Russian painters working together on Athos in the fifteenth century (Sergiyev Posad Museum, Moscow), (43) a Transfiguration in the Cretan style painted on Athos in the early seventeenth century (Benaki); (57) Sts Cosmas and Damian in the post-Byzantine style, typical of the output of the Athonite icon painters of the seventeenth century (Hermitage); (89) a pilgrimÕs icon of St Panteleimon by a Russian painter of the nineteenth century, a type that would have been mass-produced for the many thousands of Russians who travelled to Athos from 1830 onwards (Icon Museum, Recklinghausen).

            Nor was the interest of Russian collectors confined to icons: the selection of manuscripts exhibited is small but the quality is incomparable. Especially notable are (2) an eleventh-century menologion from Stavronikita, (4) another of similar date from Konstamonitou, and (5) an eleventh-century illuminated Gospel from Philotheou, all of them brought to Moscow by Arseni Sukhanov in 1654 where they are now in the State Historical Museum.

            Though less spectacular than the icons and illuminated manuscripts, it is perhaps the liturgical utensils that do most to fulfil the curatorsÕ purpose and demonstrate the spiritual side of Orthodox monastic life. Pride of place among these surely belongs to the elaborate but remarkably delicate bronze choros (chandelier) that would have been suspended from the central dome of an Athonite katholikon and in Helsinki occupied an equivalent position at the spiritual heart of the exhibition. Most of the choroi on Athos are Russian and date from the nineteenth century. This one, possibly originating from Asia Minor, dates from the late Byzantine period and was loaned by the ArchŠologische Staatssammlung in Munich. (How did it get there?) It should have been set revolving with every candle alight for the duration of the exhibition to celebrate this astonishing triumph of Finnish diplomacy.

GRAHAM SPEAKE

Oxford