A Pilgrim's Guide to Mount Athos

Planning Your Visit


© 2004 The Friends of Mount Athos

This on-line edition of the Pilgrim's Guide to Mount Athos is updated from time-to-time as needed. Updates in this edition, which are changes from the current printed edition, appear in red.


The climate of Athos

Compared with southern Greece, winter on Athos is long, wet, and often cold. Snow is by no means a rare occurrence, even at low levels; and stormy seas often confine boats to harbour. As a result there are few visitors at this time. For those who are not bothered by climatic uncertainty and who want to have the Mountain to themselves, winter can be a good time to go. Several monasteries have now installed central heating and others use wood-burning stoves.

High summer by contrast (mid-June to mid-September) can be very hot and is also the time that attracts the greatest numbers of (mostly Greek) visitors. This means that long-distance walking can be uncomfortable and guest facilities at many monasteries are overstretched. Of those who can choose, many will prefer to plan their visit either in spring (mid-April to mid-June), when the temperature is more congenial for walking and the wild flowers are at their best, or in autumn (mid-September to late October), when the selection of fruit and vegetables on offer may be more appealing.


Bureaucracy

Mount Athos needs to protect its seclusion, without which it would lose its raison d'être. For this reason it has to impose strict entry regulations. The bureaucracy may at first glance appear formidable; and so it is. But in our experience the following procedure is a reasonably sure way to gain entry.

Finite numbers of male visitors are admitted daily to the Mountain: for the Orthodox the number is 100, for non-Orthodox 10. Women are never admitted. The quota is administered by

The Holy Executive of the Holy Mount Athos Pilgrims' Bureau
109 EGNATIA STR.
546 22, Thessaloniki
Greece

Telephone and Fax Communications:

From Telephone No. Fax No.
UK 00 30 2310 252578 00 30 2310 222424
USA 011 30 2310 252578 011 30 2310 222424

The office is open from Monday to Friday from 8.30 am to 2.00 pm, on Saturday 10:00-12:00. It is closed on all official holidays. Intending visitors should first telephone the bureau to ask if there is a place in the quota for the day on which they wish to enter. The more notice you can give, especially in summer and around the time of major feasts, the greater your chance of success. Reservations can be made any time up to six months before your planed departure date; reservations can not be accepted by the Pilgrim's Bureau more than six months in advance. After the reservation has been made, you should send by post (not fax) a photocopy of that page of your passport which gives your identification (usually the last page of a UK passport). If you have made your reservation well in advance, you will receive a letter of confirmation from the Pilgrims' Bureau within about two weeks with further instructions.

All travelers are requested (in these instructions) to confirm their reservations by telephone two weeks before the date of the intended visit. Likewise, if you will be unable to travel on the date which you have reserved, you are asked to inform the Pilgrims' Bureau so that others may take your place. Failure to do so will be noted, and your request for a new reservation may not be respected.

You are then advised in the Pilgrims' Bureau instructions to present yourself at the bureau in person with your passport at least one day before the visit. The Bureau address (see above) is located in the center of Thessaloniki, between Kamara (the Rotunda of Galerius) and Agia Sophia Square. It is not necessary to supply a letter of recommendation; but non-Greeks who are Orthodox need to prove that they are indeed Orthodox (by means of a letter from a priest or bishop or a baptismal certificate).

Visitors in holy orders of whatever denomination must also obtain in advance the written permission (evlogia) of His All-Holiness the Ecumenical Patriarch of Constantinople by writing in good time to Rum Patrikhanesi, 34.200 Fener-Halic, Istanbul, Turkey. Telephone and Fax Communications:

From: Telephone No. Fax No.
UK 00 90 212 525 5416 00 90 212 534 9037
USA 011 90 212 525 5416 011 90 212 534 9037
It is helpful if, when applying, they enclose a letter of recommendation from their diocesan bishop or a person of equivalent status.

Provided that you have reserved a place in the quota for the day when you wish to enter, and provided you have the necessary documentation from the Ecumenical Patriarchate if you are in holy orders, you will then be issued with a document addresed to the Holy Community of Mount Athos authorizing your admission on the day in question. You then travel to Ouranoupolis (three hours by bus) where there are hotels and restaurants.

In addition to reserving a travel date with the Mount Athos Pilgrim's Bureau, most of the monasteries now require an advance reservation if you wish to stay there over night. The monasteries and skites currently requiring reservations are:

Vatopedi
Iviron
Karakallou
Koutloumousiou
Pantokratoros
Xenophontos
Xeropotamou
Simonopetra
Grigoriou
Stavronikita
Panteleimonos
St. Anne's
Nea Skiti
Telephone numbers for reservations are given in our Athos Telephone Directory Calls for reservations are not received at the monasteries and skites on Sundays and great holidays.

If you are uncertain of where to stay at Ouranopolis, you may like to consider the Hotel Zeus which is conveniently placed between the harbour and the pilgrims' office. Telephone and Fax Communications:

From Telephone No. Fax No.
UK 00 30 23770 71274 00 30 23770 71185
USA 011 30 23770 71274 011 30 23770 71185
It is open all year round; its rooms are comfortable and modestly priced; there is a lock-up where surplus luggage may be left while you are on the Mountain; and the society is well known to the management, so you may be sure of a friendly welcome. To emphasize the warmth of that welcome the Zeus is generously offering a discount of 20 per cent to all members of the Friends.

Ouranoupolis is the usual point of departure for Athos and literally the end of the road. From Ouranoupolis there is a boat every day at 9.45 am (in high summer there is sometimes a second departure), which is the only reliable means of access to the Mountain. (On Monday, Thursday, and Saturday there is also a boat from Ierisos at 12 noon for monasteries on the east coast, but this service is unreliable because of frequent stormy weather.) Before embarking, you exchange the permit from the Pilgrims' Bureau for your diamonitirion which entitles you to hospitality on the Mountain for (usually) four nights. (Current costs are listed separately on our Costs Page.)

If you have not been to the Holy Mountain in recent years, PLEASE NOTE:
Until 1993 this permit was issued in Karyes; now all the control takes place in Ouranoupolis, so it is no longer necessary to go to Karyes. Visitors who wish to stay longer than four nights, however, should follow the procedure recommended below.)

The boat terminates at Daphni, the main port of Athos, which it reaches at around midday. On the way, however, it will call at the landing stages of Zographou and Konstamonitou and at Dochiariou, Xenophontos, and St Panteleimonos and visitors may disembark at any of these points if they wish.

Members whose membership in the Friends began after publication of the most recent Directory should obtain a certificate of membership or letter of confirmation of membership from one of the Secretaries of the Friends of Mount Athos (Graham Speake or Robert Allison) What to take

The best advice, especially if you intend to walk, is to take as little as possible. At each monastery you will be provided with food and drink, a bed with adequate bedding, and a towel, so it is not necessary to carry these things with you. On the other hand, packed lunches are not normally provided (though the monks in the refectory, if asked, will usually give you a selection of whatever they have), and if you are walking long distances during the day you are well advised to take some basic supplies (e.g. nuts and dried fruit) and a water bottle.

The most important item for walkers is a good map. A number of tourist maps are available locally but these are not recommended. The only good map of Athos is Austrian and may be obtained by writing to Reinhold Zwerger, A-1020 Wien, Wohlmutstrasse 8, Austria. Guidebooks in several languages are available in Daphni and Karyes.

Other things worth taking include a torch (many monasteries do not have electricity; those that do, often turn it off at night); matches (to light candles and oil-lamps); stout walking shoes or boots; casual clothing (formal attire is not necessary; shorts should not be worn at any time); any medication you may need; a hat. There are a few shops in Karyes and Daphni for souvenirs, books, and basic provisions; but these should not be relied on for more sophisticated items such as film, pharmaceuticals, insect repellent, etc.

You Can Help Your Fellow Pilgrims

The information provided in these pages for your convenience is, of course, subject to change. Boat schedules and hours of service of the offices mentioned above may change from season to season. The Friends of Mount Athos attempt to keep this information up to date and to issue advisories as the need arises. You can help us and your fellow travelers by advising us if you find upon arrival that the procedures or schedules have changed. We appreciate your cooperation in our efforts to keep this information current.


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Maintained for the Friends of Mount Athos by
Robert W. Allison
North N. American Secretary, The Friends of Mount Athos
Dept. of Philosophy & Religion, Bates College
Lewiston, Maine 04240

Communications to the Friends of Mount Athos may be sent by e-mail to

Dr. Graham Speake, hon. secretary
Prof. Robert W. Allison, N. American Secretary


Communications may also be sent by post addressed to:

Dr. Graham Speake
Ironstone Farmhouse, Milton, Banbury
OX15 4HH England
(fax: 01295-722047; from the U.S.A.: 011-44-1295-722047)

or:

Robert W. Allison
Dept. of Philosophy and Religion
Bates College
73-75 Campus Avenue
Lewiston, Maine, 04240 U.S.A.
(fax: 207-786-6401)

http://www.bates.edu/~rallison/friends/friendsplanning.html